01 January 2008

Never Been to Praha (Part 4)

It’s Christmas day and I’m anxious as ever. And my anxiety has been building for this day for weeks now…months really.

Planning my October visit to M in Rome required a map of the City. I knew that an old one could be found in a long stored box of memories from my study abroad experiences twenty-four years prior. Rummaging through its contents, I stumbled upon a stack of old letters and postcards. Some were to me from friends and family and some from me to others. Curious, I began to survey my find in hopes of spotting a card from Rome and spark a memory or two of places since forgotten. It was not to be. However there were two letters from an old friend that caught my attention.

Grant Podelco and I met by chance on London’s West Side in January 1983. We were two of many students residing at the Talbot Lawn Hotel. The word “Hotel”, to hear it now, sounds overly formal. Though it was nicely situated between Hyde Park and Paddington Station, it showed its age, badly. [The picture at right was taken in 1996 following an apparent renovation] In 1983 however, it suffered from neglect and facing the smallish overgrown commons of Talbot Square was of little consequence. Still we were young and abroad and this was “home”. I was studying Architecture from Nebraska and Grant was from New York and studying journalism. We shared many free weekends heading in all directions from our London hub. We also shared an enthusiastic predilection toward, freedom, adventure, travel, wrong-sided driving and Guinness. Sadly April arrived, our term ended, and we parted ways and Grant Podelco and I never saw each other again.

The letters were postmarked Syracuse, NY 1983 but return addressed as Cuyler and Cortland, New York. The first congratulated Denise and me on the upcoming arrival of our first child. The second expressed an excitement to begin an internship at the newspaper in Syracuse, NY. I remember wondering to myself where he was now. Then, I found my map and was back to planning. Weeks later, and just prior to my departure for Rome, thoughts of my old friend resurfaced. This time I decided to investigate his current whereabouts but without much hope of really finding him.

Google: Grant Podelko, Syracuse, NY.

Hit 1: “Newspaper archive: Class Begins January 13, 1991 Grant Podelco Magazines Editor”…maybe, but too long ago and a dead end.

Hit 2: "Obituary Daily Times, Podelco, Irene 86”…not exactly the way I remembered him.

Hit 3: “Grant’s Prague Bike Blog”...Hmm, Prague? I don’t think so. Click anyway…Eureka! Twice as old and I’d still recognize him anywhere! But Prague? Intrigued I pecked out a quick e-mail to the link in this blog…

“Grant...is that you? Please let me know if you’re that Talboteer Boxman that I recall from years and years ago. If not, sorry for the bother. -mw

The next morning as I opened my e-mail and prepared to delete the usual deposit of junk mail I noticed one in particular, not junk…

“Holy sh**! Yes, it is I, Boxman!!!! And where be you?? -Grant"

I could tell in an instant that he had risen to the ranks of a Senior Editor. He had such a command of language…such eloquence. I actually laughed out loud! And I was so unexpectedly happy.

That was September and today it’s Christmas. M and I arrived in Prague by train. We managed to muddle our way through a currency exchange from Euro to Czech Koruna (or Crown). Adding to the confusion I needlessly made a mental exchange to dollars between the two. Let’s see, 1Kč is equivalent to about 6.5¢ and €1 is about $1.50 and I have €130.00 and $96.00 in cash and we each need 18Kč to catch the approaching subway…quickly now…Argh! The conversion process exceeded the capacity of my tired traveling brain. I took what the clerk gave me, never counting, and was happy for it.

Within an hour, there was a spectacular knock at a door on the third floor of the Hotel Leonardo in Prague and two old friends were reunited.

Grant, Daisy and her daughter E were a welcome sight indeed. I hoped to spend much lost time with him but was somewhat unsure of what lie ahead. After all, I was really here to spend precious time with M. We were down to a couple of days and then I would not see her again for almost half a year. We are too close to ignore that truth. And I wondered too if they might have other plans for Christmas besides us.

Diner must have been satisfying. I don’t remember. I do recall that we had a wonderful conversation and quick history of the past quarter century, each from our own perspective. Mine as an Architect in Omaha and his as a Senior Correspondent and Editor for Radio Free Europe.

It was here in Prague with M and my new/old friends where I ordered my first Czech beer. Grant explained that the the Czech Republic is the number 1 beer drinking nation on the planet, with an annual per capita consummation of some 156 litres. That's the metric equivelent of 430 12-ounce bottles of beer for every living man, woman and child in the County...Yowser! Needless to say it is good, plentiful and cheap. In Prague, a half-liter (16 US ounces) is between 20-80Kč or about $1-$4 and elsewhere in the Country it is even cheaper. Beer is less expensive than bottled soda and bottled water! Grant began to explain his unofficial (but quickly becoming "official") search for the cheapest half-liter draw in and around Prague, and how he dutifully documents these discoveries within Grant's Prague Bike Blog. At that moment, our cold, crisp half-liters of Pilsner Urquell arrived. Wow, that was good! And since I had another, I remained just 310 half-liters shy of my obligation for this year! Sitting here I almost forgot my prejudice toward Guinness…almost. Ironically, it was with Grant in 1983 when I experienced my first Guinness.

Then we walked through Old Town, saw the astronomical clock and calendar on the Town Hall Tower and strolled through the Christmas Market in Old Town Square. Later M would tell me how much she loved that evening in Prague.

We spent the next day with Grant and E as they gave a grand tour of the city. We saw the Charles Bridge, St. Vitus’s Cathedral, Prague Castle and many historical old streets and buildings seemingly untouched by time and war. We parted ways at the Castle walls after a nice hug and a quick picture. And as Grant and E walked away in the crowd they were hand-in-hand and I hoped that our paths would cross again soon.

That evening I shared a couple of half-liters of Budvar with M. We talked and savored our remaining time in an old basement pub in Old Town Prague. Some moments you just know you'll never forget...and this was one. We were the only patrons and it was a splendid way to prepare ourselves for tomorrow.

The next morning we awoke early. I packed my things, gave M a tremendous tearful hug, and we said good-bye for five months. A car was waiting to deliver a weary father to the airport alone…tough day.

No comments:

Post a Comment